Ghazipur Diary: George Orwell’s father worked in the flourishing British opium factory. Rabindranath Tagore came here, so did his father, Dwarkanath Tagore, and his sister, a writer, Swarnakumari Devi. Rudyard Kipling reportedly visited the opium factory. Charles Dickens has written about the opium trade to China. The English Governor General, Lord Cornwallis, breathed his last here. His monument is an important landmark. So what is it about Ghazipur that makes it so special?
By Kamran Khan
Ghazipur, a district in the eastern part of Uttar Pradesh, is a region rich in historical significance and economic activity. Established in 1821, it has grown from a modest town, into an important district with a diverse economic base, notable for its agricultural production, historical landmarks, and its association with the opium trade.
Historical Significance: The historical roots of Ghazipur can be traced back to ancient times. The region finds mention in various historical records and is known for its significant role in Indian history.
It was influenced by several ruling dynasties over centuries, including the Mughals and the British. The town has been a part of various historical events and movements, contributing to its rich cultural heritage.
Ghazipur has a storied past, with evidence of its existence dating back to ancient times. The city is thought to be named after Ghazi Salar Masud, a medieval Muslim warrior and saint. During the Mughal era, it became a prominent center due to its strategic location along major trade routes.
One of the notable historical sites in Ghazipur is the tomb of Lord Cornwallis, the British Governor-General of India. Cornwallis died here in 1805. His tomb is a prominent landmark in the city, reflecting the colonial era’s influence.
Economic Profile: With river Ganga flowing in its neighbourhood, today, Ghazipur is recognized for its vibrant agricultural sector. The district’s fertile lands are well-suited for the cultivation of crops such as wheat, sugarcane and pulses. The agricultural activities here sustain the local economy and contribute significantly to the state’s overall agricultural output.
In addition to agriculture, the town has developed various small and medium-sized industries. These include the production of traditional goods such as handloom fabrics, pottery and brassware. The district’s economy benefits from these diverse industries, creating employment opportunities and promoting local craftsmanship.
Opium Factory: One of the more controversial and notable aspects of Ghazipur’s economic history is its association with opium production. In the 19th century, during the British colonial period, it became one of the key centers for the production of opium in India. The British East India Company established an opium factory here to manufacture opium for trade, particularly to China.
The opium factory here was part of a broader colonial strategy to control and profit from the opium trade. The factory played a significant role in the British economy, as the trade was highly lucrative.
However, the impact of this trade was detrimental to many communities. The opium trade led to widespread addiction in China, which had severe social and economic consequences.
The factory in Ghazipur was an important site for the British administration, and its operations had lasting effects on the region. Today, remnants of the opium factory still exist, and the site has become a historical landmark. It serves as a reminder of the colonial exploitation that occurred and offers insights into the complex history of the region.
Author Amitav Ghosh, as is his forte, has documented the anthropological, cultural and social history of opium trade, originating in India, under the British rule. In his book, Smoke and Ashes: Opium’s Hidden Histories, he writes, “No amount of sophistry can disguise the fact that the British empire’s opium racket was a criminal enterprise, utterly indefensible by the standards of its own time as well as ours.”
His ‘Ibis’ trilogy was completed in 2015. It is a series of meticulously researched novels in the backdrop of the opium war, between China and Britain, beginning 1839.
Ghosh writes, “The British empire’s remarkable talents in self-exculpatory myth-making… not only did Western colonisers succeed in using opium to extract wealth from Asians, but they were successful also in obscuring their own role in the trade by claiming it had existed since time immemorial, because non-white people were by nature prone to addiction and depravity.”
According to the Financial Times, (February 9, 2024), “By 1799, the company’s opium department — for whom George Orwell’s father later worked — wielded a cruel monopoly over more than a million Indian peasant farmer households, deciding how much opium each could plant and setting (low) prices for harvests. Uncompliant farmers faced violence and eviction; a network of spies outed growers suspected of selling to the black market. Interestingly, the British had a more hands-off approach to opium production in the Malwa region, charging only transit taxes on shipping from Bombay. Ghosh partly ascribes Mumbai’s current wealth to that early anomaly.”
Writes Geeta Sundaram, former Brand Strategist & Creative Director/Writer, at Ogilvy in Linked in (November 7, 2023), “Ghosh also writes about JWS MacArthur, the head officer of the Ghazipur factory, who wrote a booklet called, Notes on an Opium Factory, for British tourists — would you believe it? And he was not the only one; apparently Rudyard Kipling also visited the Ghazipur Opium Factory and wrote an essay about it in 1899. There are also references to an essay by Charles Dickens on opium… But the strangest of all references is to the Tagore family. Rabindranath Tagore is said to have stayed at a bungalow in Ghazipur, arranged for him by his relative, who worked at the opium factory. What’s more, his sister, Swarnakumari Devi, is also said to have visited the place and written about it. And finally, Ghosh writes that Tagore’s own grandfather, ‘Dwarkanath Tagore had traded in opium and had even petitioned the colonial government for a share of the reparations that China was forced to pay after the First Opium War’.”
In the review of the book, Sundaram points out that Amitav Ghosh has written that the Ghazipur opium factory is still operational and that when he tried to visit it, he was informed that the factory has tightened restrictions and is closed to visitors. He has also written in the 19th century that things were quite different as both “the Ghazipur and the Patna opium factories have been extensively described and documented in print, and in paint and ink”.
Modern Developments: In contemporary times, Ghazipur has made strides in development while still grappling with the legacy of its past. The district has seen improvements in infrastructure, education and healthcare. Efforts have been made to enhance agricultural productivity through modern techniques and technologies. Additionally, there are initiatives aimed at preserving and promoting the cultural and historical heritage of the region.
Cultural and Social Landscape: Ghazipur is also known for its rich cultural traditions. The district celebrates various festivals with enthusiasm, reflecting the diversity of its population, and the shared unity of its communities. Vibrant local fairs and festivals, with their traditional flavours, often feature folk music, dance and crafts, showcasing the pulsating cultural life of the region.
The social fabric here is characterized by a mix of different communities and traditions. The district is home to people from various backgrounds, contributing to a harmonious and culturally rich environment.
Challenges and Opportunities: Despite its progress, Ghazipur faces several challenges. Issues such as poverty, inadequate infrastructure and environmental concerns remain prevalent. Addressing these challenges requires concerted efforts from both the government and local communities.
The town holds considerable opportunities for further development. Its agricultural potential, coupled with its historical significance, offers avenues for growth in sectors such as tourism and heritage preservation. Developing these areas can contribute to economic development and enhance the quality of life for its residents.
Conclusion: Ghazipur is a district with a rich historical background and a dynamic economic landscape. From its ancient history and agricultural base, to its controversial role in the flourishing opium trade under the British, the district has a multifaceted character.
If you happen to visit Kolkata, do make a trip to the famous Victoria Memorial, constructed by the British, as a tribute to their queen. Apart from other marvels, you will witness several rare paintings made by artists, including British painters, depicting the ancient beauty of Ghazipur. There are also paintings describing the beauty of a pure and pristine Ganga. Indeed, few people know about this rare collection of paintings.
As it continues to evolve, it is important to balance development with the preservation of its cultural and historical heritage. With ongoing efforts and strategic planning, Ghazipur can look forward to a future that honours its past, while embracing new opportunities for growth and prosperity.
Pictures by Noor Imam Bazmeeri.