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It is a scent that beckons the people of Kashmir, drawing them out of their warm homes into the biting cold. This centuries-old delicacy, served steaming hot, is more than just food; it is a ritual, a tradition, and a comforting embrace against the unforgiving chill of the season
On a frosty winter morning in the heart of Srinagar, as the first light of dawn breaks through the mist, the aroma of Harisa wafts through the narrow lanes.
It is a scent that beckons the people of Kashmir, drawing them out of their warm homes into the biting cold. This centuries-old delicacy, served steaming hot, is more than just food; it is a ritual, a tradition, and a comforting embrace against the unforgiving chill of the season.
“Kashmir is known for its cold climate, and during the winter months, we enjoy traditional foods, one of which is a delicacy called Harisa. This dish has been consumed for generations,” shared a local resident.
More than just a meal, Harisa is an experience deeply embedded in the cultural fabric of Kashmir, sustaining both the body and the spirit during the chilliest months.
Harisa’s preparation is as intricate as its rich, creamy texture. Made from minced meat slow cooked with rice and a medley of spices, its creation demands patience and dedication. It may look like Hyderabadi Haleem, but the ingredients and preparation are entirely different.
For veteran Harisa maker Mohd Ashraf, who has been perfecting the art for over 25 years, the process begins at noon and continues through the night. “We start cooking Harisa at 12.00 Noon and work on it throughout the night. By the time of the Fajr (early morning) prayer, it is ready to serve our customers,” Ashraf explained.
He is critical of modern shortcuts adopted by some restaurants, which claim to prepare Harisa in just two hours. “Proper Harisa needs time and effort to be cooked correctly and achieve the right flavour,” he emphasized, defending the traditional methods that have earned his shop a loyal following.
Customers agree. “We should avoid eating at home-delivered Harisa or the kind that is prepared in just two hours,” remarked one patron.
“They send it in plastic packaging, which is unhealthy. Authentic Harisa is worth the wait.”
Harisa’s roots in Kashmir date back to the 16th century, when it was introduced by the Sufi saint Mir Syed Shah Qasim Haqqani. Known for his piety and community service, he initially offered Harisa in two pots – one for selling and the other for charity.
“Originally, Harisa was sold only in Rajouri Kadal and Ali Kadal areas of old Srinagar city, and nowhere else. Over time, more shops began to open in various locations,” said Ashraf.
Today, Harisa is available across Srinagar, yet it retains its historical significance, with many still associating it with the saint’s legacy of generosity. Mir Syed Shah Qasim Haqqani’s shrine at Fateh Kadal remains a site of reverence, attracting devotees inspired by his life and contributions.
Nourishment for Body and Soul
Beyond its cultural and historical importance, Harisa is revered for its nutritional value. “Harisa is highly beneficial during winter because it keeps the body warm in cold weather,” explained Dr. Mehjabeen Nabi, Chairperson of the Care Foundation.
“It has many benefits, which is why it’s a preferred dish during winter. In summer, it is not consumed because it generates too much heat in the body. Harisa is a nutritious food, especially during winter. It’s suitable for everyone—old people, women, kids, and youngsters. Harisa is an important and special dish for us.”
Prepared traditionally, Harisa’s blend of slow-cooked meat and spices creates a dish that is both hearty and wholesome. For many Kashmiris, a steaming plate of Harisa after the Fajr prayer is the perfect way to begin a winter day.
“During the Chillai Kalan period, when temperatures drop below freezing, Harisa becomes indispensable. People love it. After the Fajr prayer, there’s always a crowd at the shops to buy Harisa,” said Zaid Mushtaq.
For Ashraf, Harisa is more than a livelihood; it’s a family tradition. His popular eating joint in Srinagar, run alongside his brother and cousins, has been serving generations of customers for over 50 years.
“My brother and I started the shop together, but due to a lack of opportunities in Kashmir, I left to work elsewhere. My brother stayed and managed the shop on his own. After 18 years, I returned and rejoined the business. This trade runs in the family; my cousins and uncles are also involved in it,” he recounted.
This enduring family commitment to Harisa-making reflects the dish’s role as a cornerstone of Kashmiri culture. Despite modernity’s pressures, the tradition thrives, attracting both locals and tourists eager to taste this winter delicacy.
As the valley endures yet another Chillai Kalan, Harisa’s importance is as pronounced as ever. For Kashmiris, it is more than just a meal; it is a comforting embrace against the cold, a reminder of shared heritage, and a celebration of resilience.
In the icy embrace of winter, Harisa remains a testament to Kashmir’s rich culinary heritage, a dish that warms not just the body but also the heart.
It is a tradition that bridges generations, connecting the past with the present, and inviting all—locals and visitors alike—to savour a true slice of Kashmiri life. Through its aroma and taste, Harisa offers more than nourishment; it offers a story of resilience, warmth, and belonging, etched into the heart of every winter morning in the valley.
Courtesy: kashmirtimes
Top Photo: Saliq Manzoor.
Photographs: Irat Bhat.