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Founded in 250 BCE by Emperor Ashoka, Srinagar has been a centre of political power, cultural exchange, and economic prosperity. It has hosted empires, served as a vital link on the Silk Route, and emerged as a centre of Buddhist learning and Kashmiri craftsmanship
By Bilal Gani
Book: City As Memory
Author: Sadaf Wani
Publisher: Aleph Book Company
A city is more than just a geographic entity; it is a repository of collective memory, a witness to history’s triumphs and tragedies. In City As Memory, Sadaf Wani presents an evocative narrative of Srinagar, a city that has been at the crossroads of civilizations, a cradle of culture, and, in recent times, a battleground of political conflict.
The book offers a deeply personal yet historically rooted exploration of Kashmir’s capital, intertwining memory, history, and politics in a way that is both intimate and universal. Set against the backdrop of the political turmoil of the 1990s, the book paints a haunting picture of a city torn apart by conflict. Wani’s work is not merely a retelling of history but a meditation on how conflict infiltrates every aspect of life, turning ordinary existence into a chronicle of trauma.
The book captures the brutal realities of war — persecution, displacement, and dehumanization—through personal anecdotes and historical context, making it a compelling testimony to Kashmir’s tragic past and uncertain present.
The opening chapter sets the tone for the book, blending memoir and historical narrative. The author recalls her childhood in conflict-ridden Srinagar, juxtaposing her personal memories with the city’s ancient past.
Srinagar as Centre of Political Power
Founded in 250 BCE by Emperor Ashoka, Srinagar has been a centre of political power, cultural exchange, and economic prosperity. It has hosted empires, served as a vital link on the Silk Route, and emerged as a centre of Buddhist learning and Kashmiri craftsmanship.
However, Wani’s search for her great-grandmother’s grave in the historic Malakha cemetery leads to a profound reflection on the city’s transformation. Through the vantage point of Haer Parbat, she not only underscores the fort’s military and political significance but also highlights its role as a socio-cultural and religious hub in Kashmir’s history.
Wani masterfully captures how the conflict of the late 1980s and early 1990s in the state blurred the lines between personal and political spheres. Srinagar’s Downtown, also known as Shehr-e-Khaas, emerges as a focal point of resistance.
Historically, Downtown had been the seat of defiance against foreign rulers—from the Mughals to the Dogras. It was also a battleground for internal political struggles, such as those between the Sheikh Abdullah-led Sher (Lion) faction and the Mirwaiz-backed Bakra (Shepherd) faction.
Through her father’s memories, Wani reconstructs the resilience of the city and its people. Downtown, she argues, is akin to Buenos Aires and Sarajevo—cities that have endured sieges and conflicts, and, yet, refuse to be silenced. Her reflections on memory as a living, evolving entity remind us that our pasts are often understood differently across generations.
Marginalisation of Srinagar
In the chapter titled ‘(Un)belonging in The Shahr’, Wani shifts focus to the marginalization of Srinagar by successive regimes. She draws parallels between historical neglect and contemporary urban decay, highlighting how epidemics and oppressive taxation devastated the population.
Her analysis of Kashmiri society through the lens of Immanuel Wallerstein’s world-systems theory — dividing the region into core (Srinagar), periphery (villages), and semi-periphery (adjoining areas) — is particularly intriguing. The migration of people from conflict-ridden peripheries to the semi-periphery was both an escape from violence and a pursuit of stability.
However, the author emphasizes that belonging is subjective, and shaped by one’s lived experiences (Lebenswelt), making it difficult for outsiders to integrate into the deeply insular city.
Writing the biography of a city is no small feat — it requires balancing the vastness of historical events with the intimacy of personal narratives. Wani succeeds in creating a richly detailed portrait of Srinagar, but, at times, her focus on the city’s political turmoil overshadows its broader cultural and historical significance.
Hub of Kashmiri Handicrafts
Srinagar, after all, is not just a site of conflict, but a symbol of centuries-old artistic, architectural, and intellectual traditions. It has been a beacon of globalization since antiquity, a centre of Buddhist scholarship, and a hub of Kashmiri handicrafts. While the political lens is crucial, a more expansive exploration of these facets would have provided a fuller picture of the city’s layered identity.
Despite this minor limitation, City As Memory remains a significant contribution to the literature on conflict, memory, and place. Wani’s work is not just about loss, but its also about the resilience of a people and a city that refuses to be erased.
It is a love letter to Kashmir, written with an open heart and an unflinching gaze. Readers will come away with a deeper understanding of Srinagar — not just as a city of turmoil, but as a living, breathing chronicle of history.
Bilal Gani teaches Political Science at Government Degree College, Beerwah, J&K.
Courtesy: Kashmir Times