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Dr Ahad’s analysis does not stop at the past; it extends to the present-day challenges facing Kashmiri shawl-makers. He exposes how mechanisation, market fluctuations, and dwindling patronage threaten this centuries-old tradition. His writing resonates with the urgency of preserving a dying art, making Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir not just an academic masterpiece, but also a call to action
By ZG Muhammad
Kashmir’s timeless grandeur is often symbolised by its towering Chinar trees—silent witnesses to the region’s history, culture, and changing seasons. In autumn, the Chinar’s leaves turn a fiery tapestry of colours, captured by Shakespeare’s phrase ‘ripeness is all’—the pinnacle of life’s rich experiences.
In Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir: Legends of Unsung Heroes, Dr Abdul Ahad draws a striking parallel between these magnificent trees and the artisans, who have, for generations, woven the legendary Pashmina shawls, only to be forgotten like autumn leaves turned to dust.
The plight of the Shawlbafs of Kashmir has been a tale of unending penury. Through introductory remarks, readers are taken on an odyssey that spans thousands of years, highlighting the people behind the shawls.
His deeply researched book is both an elegy and an ode to these unsung heroes whose artistry, spanning thousands of years, has shaped one of the world’s most exquisite textiles.
A monumental 552-page coffee table book, printed on high-quality paper, Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir is not just an aesthetically captivating publication. It serves as an intellectual and cultural document, a tribute to Kashmir’s rich textile history, and is an exposé of the struggles faced by artisans over centuries. It goes far beyond using Francis Bacon’s phrases: “It is a book to be read curiously, wholly, and with diligence and attention.”
Prehistoric Connection
Through meticulous research, Dr Ahad traces the origins of shawl weaving to prehistoric Kashmir, arguing that its roots lie as far back as the era of pit dwellers at Burzahom. He challenges the mainstream narrative that credits the 14th century, when Kashmir was intimately connected with Persia and Central Asia through the Sufi saints, for the birth of Kashmiri shawl-making, asserting instead that this prized craft evolved naturally within Kashmir’s ecological, geographical and historical context.
The author supports his assertions with archaeological excavations and goes on to explicate the inherent properties of the waters that contribute to the fabric’s exceptional softness.
The author acknowledges the lack of direct and conclusive evidence about the existence of shawl weaving in Kashmir in pre-historic times. Tracing shawl weaving to Burzahom provides significant insight.
Burzahom evolved into an established settlement—a primitive civilization. Dr Ajaz A Bandy’s research, Archaeologic History of Kashmir: Paleolithic and Neolithic Culture – Prehistoric Kashmir, describes that, “The archaeological sites of Burzahom and Gofkral in particular, and other sites in general, demonstrate that settlers lived in villages continuously for about 2,000 years and built various types of dwellings for their purposes. The houses had built-in facilities.” (Pp 218-219).
Given the cold climate, the development of woolen fabric and its evolution into shawls seems a natural response to the settlers’ needs. Evidence includes, “tiles with images of ladies in translucent outfits with soft wool shawls around their necks”.
The book begins with the origins of the woollen wrapper or drape worn around the shoulders, known as a shawl. Asserting that the shawl was indigenous, the author passionately builds a narrative that this finest fabric, made elegant with intricate embroidery by skilled needle workers, introduced Kashmir to the Western world and became a craze among the royalty long before Thomas Moore’s epic poem Lalla Rookh resonated in Western homes with verses such as:
“Who has not heard of the Vale of Cashmere,
With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave?”
By the 6th century, the shawl had already made its presence felt in Arabia, becoming a staple in the wardrobes of the wealthy and elite, including Hazrat Khadija bint Khuwaylid (RA), the wife of Prophet Muhammad (SAW).
Evolution of an Industry and Artisans
The book is more than a historical account—it is a treatise on the shawl industry’s socio-economic impact. After passing through various evolutionary phases, this native fabric declined into “obscurity and ignominy of redundancy” due to the caste system, which despised the maker behind the shawls, rather than recognizing their skill. The book discusses how the Sultans of Kashmir revived the craft and elevated it to new heights.
Dr Ahad provides a nuanced understanding of how the global market shaped the Kashmiri shawl’s trajectory, from being a status symbol in Arabian high society as early as the 6th century, to its patronage under Central Asian and Persian influences, introducing new motifs, and, finally, its celebrated place in European fashion during the colonial era, becoming a driving force for Kashmir’s economic growth and employing a significant portion of the population.
While the intricate needlework and breathtaking craftsmanship of these shawls have been widely praised, few have turned their gaze to the artisans themselves. Dr Ahad ensures their stories are told, highlighting how the caste system and economic structures led to their exploitation, with many artisans trapped in cycles of poverty despite creating objects of immense aesthetic value.
In portraying the plight of the Shawlbafs, Dr Ahad breaks free from the rigid framework of ‘art historians’ who often dwell solely on the beauty and glory of artifacts, overlooking the underprivileged individuals behind these creations. Like Charles Dickens, Dr Ahad uses shawl-making as a powerful lens to highlight social injustices and the hardships poor artisans face, drawing attention to the harsh realities endured by the working class.
What sets this book apart is its layered approach and its adherence to the highest standards of the genre. It moves beyond art history, delving into anthropology, archaeology and economics, seamlessly weaving together narratives of art, oppression and resilience.
Dr Ahad’s analysis does not stop at the past; it extends to the present-day challenges facing Kashmiri shawl-makers. He exposes how mechanisation, market fluctuations, and dwindling patronage threaten this centuries-old tradition. His writing resonates with the urgency of preserving a dying art, making Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir not just an academic masterpiece, but also a call to action.
Every image tells a story, adding depth to the text’s historical and cultural discourse. The book’s aesthetic presentation adheres to the highest publishing standards, making it an elegant gift and a timeless addition to any collection.
A Visual Treat
Visually, the book is a triumph. With arresting visuals, exceptional design and layout, and a cover featuring paintings by leading Kashmiri artists such as Ishfar Ali and Masood Hussain, it is a collector’s delight. The hundred-odd images and illustrations were retrieved from museums, private collections, and libraries worldwide—each visual resonating with remarkable depth and clarity.
While every picture impresses with its visual brilliance, collectively they create a vibrant sensory experience that serves as a feast for the eyes, fodder for the mind, and a treasure trove of aesthetic enrichment. For their excellence in layout, design, and publishing of this work on Kashmir shawls and shawlbafs, the South Asia Distributors and Publishers (SADP) merit high praise for their maiden publication—a magnum opus on Kashmir.
Beyond its scholarship and historical significance, Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir is an emotional and intellectual journey. It makes the reader appreciate the depth of Kashmiri culture while recognising the pressing need to preserve its vanishing heritage.
It is a book for historians, art lovers, economists, and policymakers alike—anyone interested in understanding how a piece of fabric can encapsulate centuries of history, resilience, and artistry.
Tailpiece
This book is not just about shawls—it is about people. It is about a heritage that has endured against all odds and a craft that deserves preservation.
Shawls and Shawlbafs of Kashmir is a landmark work that should find a place in every serious collector’s library, every historian’s study, and every home that values the beauty of craftsmanship and the depth of human perseverance.
Courtesy: Kashmir Times.